Master bedroom

When we put the floor in we ran a 10 by 25 beam across the wall with which to suspend the floor on and my idea was to build up a wooden framework wall from that, insulate between us and them and then plaster board and plaster over for the upstairs bedroom. 
See here the big beam, (it should be noted that the joists are not in contact with the old beams below and we have no intention of doing so at this time) There is about two and half meters before the joists sit across some new beams. 





And the floor it supports (with mrsB adding some scale to it)





The flaw in my plan came when I realised that although it is a mighty chunk of wood it is helping to hold up a big floor and still moves. I popped my laser level on the beam and took a stroll across the bedroom and watched the laser light dance over the roof and knew that if I sat a stud work wall on it and then plastered the plaster would just crack off. 
What I decided instead was to suspend the wooden frame wall form the joints in the terracotta wall and leave a gap at the bottom (so it doesn’t touch the floor) which I would disguise by a floating skirting board when finished.

I used pieces of chevron (75 x 45) cut into 100mm lengths and then used screws and rawl plugs to attach them to the wall with the 75 bits as the depth .
From there it was simple enough to construct a framework built over it with 400 centers and then noggins in between.





The neighbours are only in residence for three months a year but I wanted to make sure I combined thermal and acoustic insulation so used the Isover shown and squeezed it in behind the framework and then inserted 25mm celotex style polystyrene between the noggins and then completed the sandwich with standard 13mm plasterboard. 














You can see in this one where the bedside plug sockets and light switches will be and also the actual light fitting locations above the middle of the bed. We have a rather extravagant bed and headboard planned but you will have to wait to see details when we have found the right bits. 





Up the top (ie above the a frame) which is their attic I decided to go with 120mm Recticil (which is a celotex/ kingspan equivalent) as insulation. 
The roof will be done with 35mm celotex/kingspan between the chevrons and 150 celotex/ kingspan over the chevrons, counter-battened and then plaster-boarded leaving whatever of the beams remain on show. 





Although this picture doesn’t show it I actually shuffled all the joints together so they were very tight and then taped them with the correct reflective tape. This then has an outer skin of 22mm thick Douglas Fir (un treated as yet) which can be seen here.





As we have plenty of old beams about we may slice a few and peg them to the perlings before we put up the ceiling for an extra bit of “old wood feel” although MrsB has yet to agree to this idea and will need to see one done before committing.