We had no option but to cut into the very top of the chimney as the gable is not in the middle where we needed to dorma gable to go to maintain the symmetry of the back. The ridge sits about 4 cms from the gable and structurally sound and I have not heard about it being allowed or not.
The ridge from the left side of the roof was already in the outer side of the chimney as thats how they were built and there is little heat by the time the smoke gets to the top judging by the state of the old main ridge we took out.
What I have done since is, after building up the rear edge of the inner gable, I have installed vertical wooden supports wedged in just to take any undue weight form the chimney although my building adviser has assured me it wasn't necessary and I was being a bit "belt and braces".
The chimney is to be used but there is no danger at all from heat damage as the flue for the wood burning cooker boiler will be the stainless double lined insulated stuff.
I am laughing away to myself as I type this about the roof drawings
I designed it but was just not capable of drawing it nor did I know how to make it become a reality. Thankfully the roofer did.
If you remember earlier in the record of the build I said that we did our own drawings, with measurements etc, to submit with the planning. These were fine for the simple "plan" views required by planning and anyone with a set square, ruler and sharp pencil could pull them off.
In my minds eye I could "see" the shape the roof had to be but it was beyond my drawing skills to represent it on paper, despite numerous teeth gnashing, paper and pencil throwing, dummy spitting attempts.
I had tried numerous ways to explain how it looked to Mrs B but she couldn't picture it in her imagination so her attempts to copy and and enhance my rubbish scrawlings was a bit comical and not really to scale.
I did, in my frustration, consider making a model but it would have been a waste of time as the roofer knew exactly what I meant and it was pretty simple to do once we got going.
With the main roof already mainly chevroned and battened out (apart from where the dorma roof and eyebrows were likely to land) we chevroned out the dorma from front towards the back.
Once we got to the bit where the eyebrow started the chevron just kept on going down until it met the roof as did the next and the next and so on until the eyebrow was complete.
Then the chevrons just kept going but cut to meet the main roof
If you look at the photos of the timber work already posted you can see how that works.
Any excess woodwork that was going to be under the slates is just simply cut away after slating had occurred.
I think this one shows it best. If you look closely you can see the cube shape of the room that the dorma creates with the stud wall inside forming one side of a 110 cm wide corridor inside. The eyebrow starts at that stud wall and continues back to the internal stone wall and then fades into the rest of the roof. The idea of the eyebrows is to gain head room for the stairs and I put in two for symmetry or else it would have looked like the house was winking at you.
With the main roof already mainly chevroned and battened out (apart from where the dorma roof and eyebrows were likely to land) we chevroned out the dorma from front towards the back.
Once we got to the bit where the eyebrow started the chevron just kept on going down until it met the roof as did the next and the next and so on until the eyebrow was complete.
Then the chevrons just kept going but cut to meet the main roof
If you look at the photos of the timber work already posted you can see how that works.
Any excess woodwork that was going to be under the slates is just simply cut away after slating had occurred.
I think this one shows it best. If you look closely you can see the cube shape of the room that the dorma creates with the stud wall inside forming one side of a 110 cm wide corridor inside. The eyebrow starts at that stud wall and continues back to the internal stone wall and then fades into the rest of the roof. The idea of the eyebrows is to gain head room for the stairs and I put in two for symmetry or else it would have looked like the house was winking at you.
Where sometimes I was looking at timber work and thinking "how does that have any structural integrity" the roofer explained that once you start getting the chevrons on and then the battens the whole roof (every part of it) holds the whole roof (every part of it) together.
The down force (or weight if you like ) is spread over the A frames pearlings and gables. Because it is hand built, bespoke if you like, it is amazingly strong.
This is looking up at where the left hand ridge and the dorma ridge go into the chimney stack. later on when I post the pictures of the work inside over the last couple of years you will be able to see the extra supports I fitted to the dorma ridge.
The down force (or weight if you like ) is spread over the A frames pearlings and gables. Because it is hand built, bespoke if you like, it is amazingly strong.
This is looking up at where the left hand ridge and the dorma ridge go into the chimney stack. later on when I post the pictures of the work inside over the last couple of years you will be able to see the extra supports I fitted to the dorma ridge.
The slate material is difficult to describe as they feel like slates but it is a composite material, (black colour guaranteed for 25 years).
I will send more details once I get back and have access to the spec.
You cut them easily with a special tool. It is the same f sort of size as a hand help pop riveter and looks like a large pair of tin snips with one flat bottomed blade and one sharp one, almost like an elaborate pair of wick trimming scissors.
Any decent builders merchant or roofing supplies place will have them and they are easy and accurate to use.
The French also have special "roofing hammers" which have a cutting/trimming blade on them but they are better suited for trimming real slate however they do have a notch cut into the head for twisting out a hook should you need to.
I will send more details once I get back and have access to the spec.
You cut them easily with a special tool. It is the same f sort of size as a hand help pop riveter and looks like a large pair of tin snips with one flat bottomed blade and one sharp one, almost like an elaborate pair of wick trimming scissors.
Any decent builders merchant or roofing supplies place will have them and they are easy and accurate to use.
The French also have special "roofing hammers" which have a cutting/trimming blade on them but they are better suited for trimming real slate however they do have a notch cut into the head for twisting out a hook should you need to.
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